Whether your reticulation system draws water from a bore or from mains scheme water, if suddenly no water is coming out, the first thing to check is your reticulation controller.
Turn on the reticulation controller and set it to “run”, “manual” or whatever iniates a manual start of station one. Does the digital display look OK? In most types of reticulation/iirigation controllers used in Perth you would expect to see time left to run counting down in the display. Consult your user manual for details. Retic controller manuals are often available online and some are available by clicking here.
Hunter Retic Controller
Make sure your controller is actually receiving 240 volts from mains power and not just running on the 9 volt back-up battery. 9 volts is not enough to open solenoid valves or start a 24 volt pump relay. Mains 240 V in controllers is stepped down to 24 V for operation of solenoid valves and relays. If it is a model that is plugged in to a power point you could try another appliance in that outlet.
Rain Dial Retic Controller
If that all seems normal but there is no water try another station. Still no luck? If your system runs from mains scheme water then it may be that the “master” solenoid valve is not opening. If you can locate your master valve you should be able to manually open it. Some have an on/off lever or try rotating the coil about a quarter of a turn anti-clockwise. If you suddenly get water then congratulations you have found the problem! If your system runs from a bore then check that the 240v or (or 440v if three phase) pump isolation switch is turned on and that no circuit breakers are tripped. You should hear a pump start relay “click” or “clunk” somewhere when you start the system, indicating the retic controller is sending a signal as it should.
If none of the above has helped give us a call on 1300734 300 for further advice or to book one of our Perth mobile service men to fix the problem for you. Or visit our main website here for more info.
When we are out and about repairing old water bores sometimes we find a bore is beyond economical repair. Often the only sensible thing to do is install a new submersible bore because the homes mains water pressure won’t be strong enough to power reticulation that was configured for the old bore. Of course we are asked who we can recommend to drill a new one. We always confidently recommend our installation division, Virgin Bores. Visit the website here for more new water bore info or a bore quote, 1300 734 300
With the ending of Perth metro sprinkler bans for 2013 Perth bore owners are testing their water bores for the first time this season……and some aren’t working! We have had calls today all with similar stories. “I’m starting my bore and the circuit breaker is tripping ( or fuse is blowing), what do I do?”. First thing is we send a bore electrician ( one who is experienced in pumps and bores ) with special equipment to test the circuits and windings of the motor. With submersible motors this can be done without winching the pump up. Remember if it is a fused bore pump motor it may be covered under household insurance. Also if the fault can be traced back to one of winters electrical storms it may be related, even damage from lightning induction, and this too may be subject to an insurance claim. This is a very good reason to have the matter attended to first by specialist bore repairers who can correctly diagnose the fault and possible cause. 1300 734 300 will reach us 24/7
Typical plastic bore box which covers a submersible bore.Just uncovered a Nedlands submersible bore
We often get calls from Perth customers who know they have a submersible bore but have no idea where it is. They bought the house long after the submersible bore was drilled and no-one knows where the bore is let alone what they are looking for. This adjacent pic shows a submersible borehead we just uncovered in Nedlands. If the bore was installed in the last 20 years or so there will typically be a green lid just under the lawn like this one. Sometimes they are even flush with the lawn and visible. The lid normally conceals a box that is about 435 x 300 x 305mm as seen to the right. Older than 20 years and sometimes it is a small concrete lid on a concrete box of similar size.
Can’t find your submersible bore?
Call 1300 734 300. Our mobile service teams have special locating equipment and expert knowledge.
From time to time we attend a Perth submersible bore where we test everything and find the submersible motor is running but no water is coming out. The first thing we do is disconnect the bore at the borehead and test it again. This ensures that it was not actually a problem with the delivery of water via the reticulation system. Often people leap to the conclusion that there is something wrong with the pump. Often though, it turns out to be a small hole blown in the rising poly main. That is the 40 or 50mm flexible black poly pipe that delivers the water to the surface from the submersible pump. Why would this poly blow? Commonly because, for one reason or another, the pump has been run against a closed head, that is where there is nowhere for the water to flow. Probably because a solenoid valve didn’t open or a tap was left inadvertently off. The motor overheats and heats up the surrounding water. The black poly pipe becomes malleable as it is affected by this heat and under pressure a hole blows in it. Normally this hole is just above the pump.
Winching up a submersible pump Perth
Generally just the poly needs repairing (along of course with the underlying cause of the dead-heading). To do this we set up our portable which and winch the submersible pump to the surface. We cut off a section of the poly, rejoin it to the pump and reinstall everything back down the borehole. Bingo all fixed! Most Perth submersible boreholes are between 15 and 60 metres deep and a winch is required for the deeper holes.
Presuming the pump is running but there is no water being delivered then it is most likely a priming issue. First check though that it is
Priming point on “Davey” pump
not a surface reticulation problem with a manual gate valve having been turned off or an automatic solenoid valve not opening. Sometimes, if the centrifugal pump style bores have not been run for a few weeks, they lose prime through a slow leak.
Often just priming the pump and making sure it is run every few days will overcome the problem. There is usually priming point on top of the pump. Sometimes a priming point may have been put at the top of the well in the main line.
If it is a serious leak it will need repairing.
Brass Check ValvePhilmac Check Valve
It might be the check valve that needs replacing. It could be leaking gland-packing or even a leaking mechanical seal.
Sometimes it is the “bottom prime” i.e. the water under the check valve in the pipe that goes down to the water table has escaped.
Call us, we will ask a few questions and give you some options. on 9246 0111 or visit our main website here. Our mobile service teams cover all of Perth greater metro area including outer suburbs.
Finishing off a new submersible bore in Mt PleasantFinished bore box lid will be beneath the lawn.
Today Virgin Bores (our installation division) drilled a new submersible borehole south of Perth near the river in Mount Pleasant. This new bore replaces a 50 year old well style bore with galvanised piping and an old centrifugal pump that was beyond repair. The new submersible bore needed a larger than normal 2.2 kilowatt pump to water the quarter acre block in two stations. The house was quite close to the Swan River so our local knowledge was valuable in ensuring we did not drill too deep to avoid potential salinity problems.
For more details on drilling a new submersible water bore in Perth and surrounds visit http://www.virginbores.com.au
Our mobile service teams do prompt repairs to ALL TYPES of Water Bores & Reticulation Sprinkler Systems Perth metro-wide. Free phone advice. Our experience saves you time and money. Bore repair HOTLINE 1300 734 300 North of River: Troy 0408454130 South of River: Brett 0411511611
This is one of the team getting a submersible pump ready to put down a borehole in the Hamersley area.
Getting ready to winch an old submersible pump out of a borehole in Floreat. This one turned out to have a snapped shaft between the pump and motor.
With the ending of Perth metro sprinkler bans for 2013 Perth bore owners are testing their water bores for the first time this season……and some aren’t working! We have had calls today all with similar stories. “I’m starting my bore and the circuit breaker is tripping ( or fuse is blowing), what do I do?”. First thing is we send a bore electrician ( one who is experienced in pumps and bores ) with special equipment to test the circuits and windings of the motor. With submersible motors this can be done without winching the pump up. Remember if it is a fused bore pump motor it may be covered under household insurance. Also if the fault can be traced back to one of winters electrical storms it may be related, even damage from lightning induction, and this too may be subject to an insurance claim. This is a very good reason to have the matter attended to first by specialist bore repairers who can correctly diagnose the fault and possible cause. 1300 734 300 will reach us 24/7
because, for one reason or another, the pump has been run against a closed head, that is where there is nowhere for the water to flow. Probably because a solenoid valve didn’t open or a tap was left inadvertently off. The motor overheats and heats up the surrounding water. The black poly pipe becomes malleable as it is affected by this heat and under pressure a hole blows in it. Normally this hole is just above the pump.
Priming point on “Onga” pump
Priming point on “Davey” pump
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